凌晨三點的新發地 Sinfati at 3 am

故事

兩點,計程車依然很多,根本用不著預約。三點,前來采購的老闆們拿著手電筒照來照去。四點,天已發蒙,新的一天到來了。五點,保潔師傅開始工作了,在學生們看來還是半夜。

昨天把論文馬馬虎虎匯報完了,得一天的空閒。兩點的鬧鐘,在床上坐了一刻鐘,兩點半到小西門,沒想到預約的車沒來,就取消了,大半夜其實車也不少,之前眞是多慮了,出租車司機眞辛苦。新發地和想象中的還是很不一樣,至少大得多,起碼有一箇半師大。分爲好幾箇區,從最靠南的門進去,最先到的是水果區,都是搭起來的棚子,後來是托運部,原來跟我爸去取燈,托運部也沒少見,大抵就是那樣,不過車裏的是水果而不是燈,再後來是賣菜的地方,不過天亮了,感覺沒了神秘色彩,就不想錄了,撤。

也許我此生從未被那麼多雙眼睛看過舞臺上除外,一走進去,兩旁的商戶齊刷刷地看過來,就像看猴子一樣,眞是滿身的不自在,這時身體就會找些事情來緩解尷尬,比如摸頭髮、自言自語、東看西看、假裝思考、假裝鎮定。後來稍稍好一點,權當鍛煉,如果多經歷幾次應該就好多了,想想那些長槍短炮的記者,估計會更尷尬吧。大部分人都要問這是幹啥的,還有箇制杖來捏一捏毛套,如果有人拿著相機,估計也沒人會問吧。甚至走在路上都有人要問,我只好假裝沒聽見,其實也不確定是不是在問我。還聽到有人說「中央電視臺中央電視臺」……反應也是各式各樣,「這是幹啥的」「錄音」──「喊麥?」「練歌?」實在不懂我練歌來新發地幹嘛「錄音幹啥?」要你管「這段錄進去沒有?」你說呢?「錄抖音?」這箇眞是今日最佳確實,要站在他們的角度,我錄這些有啥用啊,他們天天在這待著,這些聲音都聽膩了吧。

難度最大的是實在太擁擠,每家每戶都挨著,各種三輪車板車往來不停,我幾乎沒有能好好站的地方,更无論錄音。或許以後應該厚著臉皮問能不能站到他們棚子裏面錄。另外,這種情況下眞想用槍型話筒,可惜沒錢,不用立體聲也可以,主要是說話,除了車就沒太多運動的東西。也只敢用 AB 式的,要是張開的話收音範圍更大更嘈雜。這時感歎一下,出租車司機也不算最辛苦的,這些每天上夜班的纔辛苦,還有賣菜的箇體戶,估計也是三四點來買菜。買家一般都打箇手電,有些會選一下,有些估計是老客戶,一來就拿走了。今天學到的知識點:一箱都是說「一箇」,「八箇草莓」「十箇紅提」。

南二環開外那眞是荒涼,北京全部在發展北邊了。看到網頁說未來五年內新發地露天貿易全部消失,改成室內,那意趣也會大大減小吧,畢竟城市裏菜市場變成超市已經少了不少趣味了。

Sinfati (Xinfadi) is the biggest Agricultural wholesale market in Beijing.

There were still enough taxis at two o’clock, no need to make an appointment. At three o’clock, the bosses who came to make a purchase shaked their flashlights. At Four o’clock, dawn broke, and a new day has arrived. At five o’clock, the cleaner started working, and it was still midnight in the eyes of the students.

The day before, I finished my paper and was free. Two o’clock alarm clock, sitting in bed for a quarter of an hour. Sinfati was very different from my imagination, at least much bigger. Divided into several sections, from the most south, the first was the fruit area, constructed by sheds, and later the shipping department, and then it was vegetable area, but it was dawn, I felt there was no mystery, I didn’t want to record, withdraw.

Maybe I have never seen so many eyes in my life. As soon as I walked in, the traders on both sides looked at me as if a monkey, and it was really uncomfortable to be grazing. At this time, my body would find something to ease the embarrassment, such as touching the hair, talking to myself, watching here and there, pretending to think. Most people would ask what is the rig for, and even one pinched the wind shield. If someone was holding a camera, no one would ask. I also heard one saying «China Central Television, China Central Television»……

The biggest difficult I encountered was the heavy crowd. Shops were squatting, all kinds of tricycles were constantly going. I had almost no place to stand, let alone recording. In this case, I wanted to use a shotgun, but unfortunately, I had no money. I only dared to use the A-B type. If using ORTF, the sound range would be bigger, and the record would be more noisy.

The South Second Ring Road is quite desolate. Beijing is all developing to the north. When I read a webpage saying that the open-air trade would disappear in the next five years in Sinfati, I thought the fun would be greatly reduced.

內容提要

  • 報警聲
  • 拖車
  • 喇叭
  • 從大車上卸貨,火龍果一箱一箱扔下來
  • 賣櫻桃的:「這箇給你八塊五」「產地不一樣」「微信一天只能轉一萬」
  • 賣草莓的:「明天就好了不用挑了,幫一下忙好不好」「你留箇微信留箇電話,直接過來拿就行了」
  • 「山竹什麼時候搞特價給我說,二百多的時候」
  • 路邊,三輪和麵包湊在一起,兩箇男人在算帳:「昨天的事,我給你,成吧」「三千二百九十,二百七,加上榴槤,五百七,加上箇二百,總共是四千九」
  • 賣芒果的:「水性特別好」「你放一百扼十箇心,扼十斤,沒有別的東西啊,多少斤就多少斤,少一兩都不要錢」
  • 買山竹紅提的:「5A 的,兩百七」「這都一級果啊」「紅提,進口紅提,一百六,十四斤的」「是進口啊,必須是進口啊」「口感還甜,還硬氣」「這是智利的,口感特甜」
  • 賣桃子的:「我能騙你嗎」
  • 「太不實在了」「我還不實在?」「回來回來」
  • 一箇很惡心的北京社會大漢:「我這不佔別人便宜心裏難受。无所謂,我立馬就走」
  • 「說難聽點,你就是箇錘子」「你就是箇卵子」
  • 「美食廣場前邊是吧」
  • 賣菜區:「一塊錢一斤,哪三塊啊」「芹菜四塊五,成捆的四塊二」

abstract:

  • alarm sound
  • trailer
  • horn
  • unloading from the truck, dragon fruit is thrown down a box by a box
  • selling cherries: «This is 8.5 yuan» - «the origin is different» - «Only 10,000 yuan can be transferred on WeChat a day.»
  • Selling strawberries: «Tomorrow will be finished, don’t pick it up, lend me a hand please.» «Just leave your WeChat or phone number, come over and fetch it.»
  • «Call me When mangosteen is at a special price, when it’s two hundred yuan.»
  • On the roadside, two men were calculating: «What happened yesterday, I will give you, OK?» «Three thousand and two hundred Ninety, two hundred and seventy, plus durian, five hundred and seventy, plus two hundred, a total of four thousand and nine hundred»
  • Selling mango: «Particularly juicy.» «You put a hundred and twenty hearts (completely at ease), twenty jin (10kg), there is nothing else, how many jin is how many jin (won’t be less), don’t need money if one or two less.»
  • selling mangosteens and grapes: «5A, two hundred and seventy.» «This is a first-class fruit.» «Grapes, imported…»
  • Selling peaches: «Can I lie to you?»
  • «Too bad.» «Am I not honest?» «Come back»
  • A disgusting man: «I’m uncomfortable if not taking advantage of others. It doesn’t matter, I just leave.»
  • «Say ugly, you are a hammer.» «You are an egg.» (the two words have special meaning)
  • «Before the food court?»
  • Selling vegetables: «One yuan per jin, not three.» «The celery is 4.5, and the bundles are 4.2.»

參考鏈接